When you first think of a dream vacation chances are Cork does not slide into your vision. It’s one of those cities that has remained under the radar for years—and that is through no fault of its own. For most, Ireland—especially you Americans—is a holy pilgrimage to go on long road trips to find lost ancestors and drink Guinness. But it’s so much more. Cork, while one of the Emerald Isle’s largest cities, is often just thought of as one of those business type stop offs with little soul and nothing to do. The truth is far from that. While it is a long way off from being the next big honeymoon destination, it’s a city that offers plenty of spunk and soul, and for many, is the gateway to some of southern Ireland’s most coveted termini, from Cobh to County Kerry and Waterford.
And then there is The Montenotte. For Cork folk it is a bit of an institution. Though it all dates back to 1766, a recent restyle has brought back into the 21st century. It’s bold print galore paired with muted and cosy touches, plus lacy velvets on the upholstery and splashes of modern art on the walls. Style wise, it’s eclectic, classic and in some corners, wildly random (think touches of gaudy Art Deco and the odd faux plant), but it all seems to work. Thanks to its elevated position over the city, the views from its tiered Victorian garden are lovely year-round, especially when spring and summer hit. Elsewhere there’s a moss-covered relaxation room, a well-kitted out spa and health club, and a plush, super-sized seat cinema which shows two free screenings a day.
As for the rooms, personally I’d skip the boutique boltholes of the main house for the Woodland Suite Experience. Why? For the simple fact that it is a totally separate entity from everything else. Here, you are left alone to bed rot with nothing but the company of Mother Nature—a godsend post transatlantic flight. Totally self-contained, check in takes place in a specially dedicated hut (where breakfast is served) and after you’ve been read all the terms and conditions, you are let loose to explore the wonders of your new kingdom.
One huge perk is that all of the beehive style suites are strictly adults only, and as a result, feel that little more exclusive and private. Inside, it’s all very much a slick operation with separate living spaces and fully functioning kitchens – all designed in such a way to encourage you to never leave your hive. Volcanic black is the main palette as are splashings of mousy browns and bright whites. There are also plenty of spaces to lounge in – including comfortable snugs – and the freestanding tub is also a nice and welcome addition to the space, especially come reading hour on those slow and notoriously wet Irish afternoons.
Food wise, it’s a tale of two hotels. In the Panorama Restaurant housed in the main hotel, it can be at times hit and miss on the more adventurous items on the menu, so I suggest ordering simple staples like the house burger and fries or a meek steak. That said, there is a strong focus on locality here – the scallops from West Cork are especially good – and the leather booths and floral pillows deliver an extra dose of quirk to the experience, too. The cocktail list is solid in the Glasshouse bar. A vision of modern Art Deco, the space splattered in all sorts of loud prints and bold wallpaper. You can also sample The Montenotte’s own gin here, along with all the herbs the hotel produces in its gardens. Breakfast presents all the usual suspects – including a fantastic continental cheese board – and all the delights of a full Irish breakfast.
Fast Facts
Location: Cork, Ireland
Address: Middle Glanmire Road, Montenotte, Cork City, T23E9DX, Ireland
The vibe: Stripped back cottage core. Relaxation is the major perk, burnt out or not.
Room Count: 107, plus nine Woodland Suites
Starting Rate: Woodland Suites from about 700 USD per night.
Dining: Local fare meets an international spin. The simpler the dish, the better.
Amenities: Bar, restaurant, spa, gym.
Cork, Ireland